Esja and Kjalarnes

Esja & Kjalarnes

About half an hour from Reykjavík, you'll find Esja, the striking mountain range that locals head to when they need to get out of the city for a bit. The neighbouring district of Kjalarnes is quiet and spread out. It's where outdoor adventure and natural serenity go hand in hand. People come here to hike, take photos, be in nature, or just breathe the pure, fresh air. In winter, it's a great spot to see the northern lights. Together, Esja’s trails and Kjalarnes’ low-density tranquillity offer a perfect escape from city life without having to travel far. So if you're looking for a few hours away without the commitment of a road trip, this is the perfect option.

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Things to do and places to wander

Esja

Esja's Mountain Magic

More than just a dramatic backdrop for the city, Esja is the capital’s most iconic hiking destination, drawing around 30,000 visitors every year. Rising to 914 metres, it’s not a single peak but a volcanic mountain range shaped by glaciers and time. Multiple well-marked trails are on offer, ranging in difficulty from easy walks in the foothills to more demanding climbs.

About 6.6km from the parking lot, with around 600 metres of altitude gained, Steinn (The Stone) is a popular turnaround point for hikers, rewarding their efforts with sweeping views of Reykjavík and Faxaflói bay. The trail continues to the summit Þverfellshorn, offering even more dramatic vistas on clear days. For locals and visitors, Esja invites exploration, challenge, and reconnection with nature, just minutes from the city.

Hiking Route to the Stone
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Awe & Aurora

The Kjalarnes district, located just beyond Esja, is one of the best places in the capital area to view the Northern Lights, also known as the Aurora Borealis. Its low light pollution, open skies, and sweeping views over the bay and mountains create ideal conditions for spotting the northern lights illuminate dark skies. 

Visitors can enjoy a quiet evening walk or set up their camera for long-exposure shots with Esja or the North Atlantic as a dramatic backdrop. If you're staying in Reykjavík, a short evening drive to Kjalarnes during the aurora season (typically September to April) offers a good chance of witnessing this celestial display, without the crowds.

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Edge-of-Town Wellness

If you’re looking for geothermal bathing experiences that showcase Iceland’s wellness culture at its most authentic, you’re in luck!

In the heart of Kjalarnes lies Klébergslaug, a charming local pool with hot tubs, children's water slide, and panoramic views of Faxaflói bay, Esja, and the surrounding peaks. This quiet, family-friendly spot is ideal for relaxing after a hike or enjoying a peaceful soak beneath the stars. A short drive further along the coastline leads you to Hvammsvík hot springs, an award-winning retreat that blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Eight hot pools are set right at the edge of Hvalfjörður (‘Whale Fjord’), offering a unique bathing experience where geothermal water meets the sea, complemented by tidal changes and stunning raw landscapes. 

How to get to Esja & Kjalarnes

Seltjarnarnes

By Bus 

To get to Esja & Kjalarnes by bus, you can take bus number 29, which runs between Mosfellsbær and Kjalarnes.

 

Reykjavík City Card offers hassle-free, unlimited travel on public busses withing the capital area. Choose between 24, 48 or 72 consecutive hours from the moment you activate your card. 

By Electric Scooter

Electric scooters are not available.

By Car

Esja & Kjalarnes are easily accessible by car. The drive from downtown Reykjavík takes around 45 minutes.

Tiptoe top tips

  • After or before your hike, take time to wander through Kjalarnes’ peaceful landscape and coastal views.
  • Between September and April, set aside an evening to watch the Northern Lights from dark spots in Kjalarnes, taking time to pause and reflect under the sky.
  • On Mt.Esja, choose a trail that matches your fitness, hike at a pace that lets you savour the scenery, and pause at the Steinn turnaround to enjoy the views without tackling the full summit.
  • Weather around Esja can change quickly. Wear sturdy footwear and layers, bring waterproof clothing and sun protection.